Showing posts with label collar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label collar. Show all posts

18 March 2015

The Western Plaid Shirtdress M6696


If there's ever a time when you find yourself thinking "what will make Chrystal snap?" Sewing 18 buttonholes for this dress is the correct answer. You know that scene from home alone where Joe Pesci starts mumbling "frigg-a-fuda-fuda" repeatedly? Try sewing 18 buttonholes; you'll realize you start to sound a lot like him - maybe a little less PG; Mumbling and with a distinctive look of murder twinkling in my eye as it switches uncontrollably.


It's not like buttonholes are difficult. I have a buttonhole foot that is automatic - A lazy sewists dream, but doing it 18 times on a plaid dress trying to line button hole to button perfectly. Cutting open each button hole without cutting the sides too much. It's the monotony of it all that drives my brain bonkers. Why 18 you say? Because I convinced myself that white buttons can only go on top of white checks in my plaid. The plaid is 1" plaid. Yeah....I hate myself too (But oh so thankful that I am such a shorty that I only need 36" height from collar to hemline). But I sure do love the outcome.....but please disregard the small bald patch that I ripped out of my hair. Minor details.


And let's talk about plaid. Why does it even exist? As a form of torture? Yes I believe that MUST be the truth of it. I wanted, nay NEEDED everything to match. I went to far as to put in extra effort; pins and markings and the whole shabam to make sure this baby matched. But alas, I still had to get creative to match that buttonband. If you look closely you'll notice my waistbands don't match.... Ooooopsie. One may be 2" thick and the other....a little more than that and not so straigh. And All that plaid matching gone to shit. But hey...the buttonband is nice and matchy matchy!


And plaid yokes. I should have been more mindfully and cut it on the bias for added pretty factor. Cause who doens't love to be distracted by pretty pretty pretty pretty. But my brain was on square mode (As am I most of the time) and I sewed right on with the plaid matching across that seam line. I was selective on which seams required matching. The order went: buttonband, back yoke.....to hell with everything else. I'm very invested in plaid matching if you can't tell...even with that WANT for matching.
 
Now let's talk luscious fabric that makes you squeal....namely robert kaufman....hello my lover, let me caress your smooth cotton weave again....you're so squishy and ironing pleats in you is so satisfying....so nice....mmmmm....oh! You're still here? I'm having a private moment with my fabric if you'll excuse me...

Ok I'm done. to summarize...I love robert kaufman. And want everybody to forever more gift me with Robert Kaufman fabrics. You've been told.

Now lets talk pattern. The ever loved M6696. So I've been progressing in my weight loss, and when I made this dress in January I cut the D-cup size 14, and now, in March, I cut a D-cup size 10 bust, grading to a 12 waist and skirt. I wanted a snugger fit under the arms and across my bust. The size 14 was roomier even then, and this size 10 fits perfect with not much ease which is appreciated. Yay for healthy lifestyle changes but nay for having to retrace all of my patterns....
That is a SERIOUS Rump! Thanks Wind!
Otherwise as you can see....I used shortsleeves so I could wear this into Spring, and used the full pleated skirt again because alas this rumpity rump still needs a little coverage.

And why Western? Because I have a Western themed formal event to go to this evening and I'ma wear my new Dress!


Details


Pattern: M6696
Size: Size 10 Bodice D-cup, graded to Size 12 for waist and skirt
Fabric: Robert Kaufman Blue 1" Plaid
Alterations: Removed gathers from back completely.
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15 September 2014

Chambray Dot Bruyere


Sometimes you fall in love and you fall in love instantly. The new Bruyere pattern by Deer&Doe was love at first site. The moment I opened my inbox email and saw this new pattern I had to have it. Not only do I adore the style of this shirt but I know that the Deer&Doe patterns fit me with extremely few if any alterations. I ordered it that first say and waited anxiously for it to arrive in the mail!


The bottom half of this shirt with it's pleats and dipped hem takes a basic button up and makes it spectacular. It's casual yet looks so put together. The perfect shirt really.


I am not a button-up shirt kind of girl. I've always struggled to find one that fits comfortable across my bust without the buttons spreading and my boobs saying peek-a-boo. Takes the professional out of button up very quickly.


The construction of the placket and the collar was really ingenious. It all came together so easily and with such CLEAN finishes! No exposed edges. Pretty amazing! 


Like I said, this was my first button up. I was worried about how well I could follow the instructions. I will admit that the instructions are fine, but not exactly thorough. I had to read through them once or twice to understand what I was intended to do, but the pictures helped and I was able to successfully make everything come together. So thankful because I didn't make a muslin and trusted in my faith in the sizing and fit of Deer&Doe's patterns.

This fabric - Gorgeous right? It is Robert Kaufman's Dot Chambray from is Nautique line. I ordered it online from Fabric.com and this was my first official online fabric purchase. I bought it along with two other Robert Kaufman Chambray fabrics. I raced to the border when the arrival notification came in to pick it up. I pulled over once I crossed back in to Canada to take a look at my new prized possessions and to my absolute delight I realized that they had sent me 3 yards extra of this Chambray dot fabric! It was two separate pieces of the fabric so I think they accidentally sent another others order along with mine. But I don't mind one bit - This fabric is incredible to sew. 


Not perfect top stitching but my absolutely adorable baby Scotia distracts from those not so even lines! 

I have not been any happier with a make. I learned so much during this shirt! There were so many firsts for me: a collar, button placket, top stitching extensively. 

I always tell people that sewing in a straight line is the most difficult thing to do. I always have the urge to pull my fabric through the machine instead of trusting my feed dogs. Well, I set my machine on a slow setting to keep my speed manageable to help with all the top stitching. I used my edge foot to help with spacing but it isn't perfect - but neither am I and I'm ok with that. 


I spent an hour fiddling with my sewing machines button hole making to get every setting perfect. I finally found just the right amount for everything and went to town. I bought both these silver dot buttons and some lovely wooden buttons. In the end I felt these silver dots helps keep this shirt slightly above full casual which means I can still wear it to work!


When I make this again The only change I'll make is to shave a 1/2 inch off the shoulder as it sits off my natural shoulder. I could simply reset the sleeves but why alter something as beautiful as this shirt. I'm so happy with the result and without ANY alterations!

And no post is complete without an awkward action shot. 

Details:

Pattern: Bruyere shirt by Deer&Doe
Size: 14
Fabric: Robert Kaufman Dot Chambray
Alterations: ABSOLUTELY NONE!!
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