When Cowl Neck Dreams Come True

When I first started sewing last summer, I spent a significant amount of time browsing the websites of independent pattern companies. I loved the praise they received for both the drafting and instructions. As a newbie sewer, I wanted my projects to be successful, so those traits were highly appealing to me. And I also like to hoard things so I bought the Sewaholic Renfrew pattern during this pattern buying spree.

The renfrew was calling me name; cowl neck, knit, and great for every day casual wear. It was MINE, all mine. But, the pattern remained tucked away in my drawer, untouched, unloved, because knits? I'm new - lets not frightened myself away from my newly acquired skill with a massive knit failure. So it sat. Finally, 6 months later, newly owned serger in possession, I was ready and equipped to make my first renfrew.

The fabric I used is a rayon/spandex blend, soft to the touch with a nice non-clingy drape. The pattern is simple but interesting, and reminds me of actual knitting with all those V markings. But Rayon, oh rayon, how I DO love it. I'm trying really hard to find and use non-polyester fabrics. And this rayon was found in the clearance section for $2/metre. I love a great bargain.

So I started cutting out my fabric. Cut cut cut. Moved to the sewing room and started following the instructions.I get to the cowl and it says "sew the two pieces lengthwise". And I stare blankly. Two pieces? Oops, I only cut one and was out of fabric. NOW what do I do? I headed back to Fabricland in search of 0.5m more of fabric but it is gone. My beautiful Rayon, gone. So I made due, I bought solid black rayon for the inside of the cowl neck.

This pattern was a dream to sew. It took me less than an hour of sewing time and less than 3 hours in total (not including the second trip to the fabricstore). I liked that the sleeves were sewn to the arm hole and then the side seams and underarm seams were sewn together. Significantly easier than fitting a sleeve after its already a tube.

I sewed a size 42 but afterwards the shoulder seam was too wide so I serged it 1.5 inches closer. The stretch in the knit was forgiving and made this adjustment easy without ruining the fit at all.

The cowl is gigantic. It can ALMOST be worn as a hood. Next time I make it, I'll raise the neckline in the front and make the cowl smaller. It is a tad too loose for my usual liking, but you know what? I adore this fabric and I adore that my first foray into the world of knits was a success!  Yay for Knits!

Pattern: Renfrew by Sewaholic Patterns
Size: 42
Fabric: Rayon/Spandex knit
Cost: $2/metre
Alterations:

• Serged the shoulder seams up 1.5 inches because I forgot to due a narrow shoulder adjustment prior to cutting my fabric.

With the temperatures at -50C I won't have ANY outdoor photos for awhile.

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My Little Red Dress - Lekala Pattern

All I wanted for Christmas was a red plaid dress. Then I couldn't find plaid. It was maddening. I returned to the fabric shop every week in hopes that Christmas plaids would arrive, but as Christmas loomed closer, and the plaids didn't arrive, I knew I'd have to figure something out. This vibrant red viscose crepe was calling my name. And at $3/m I knew the price made up for the lack of plaidiness. 

I feel like CHISTMAS in this outfit!

Oh yeah, that plaid jacket I purchased at Target for $5. I needed to wear SOMETHING plaid. And this outfit makes me feel like Christmas.

A short while ago I found Lekala Patterns online. I thought the concept was pretty great; you provide all your measurements (even the length between nipple points!) and they give send you the PDF pattern in to your specifications. 

Lekala is Ideal for somebody who:

• Doesn't know how to fit well (Me) 
• A beginner seamstress
• Someone looking for a quick make!

This pattern is #4168 and is a princess seam dress. I turned the form-fitting skirt into an A-Line by simply drawing a straight line from the pattern hip marker 2 inch out to the side of each pattern piece.

I'll openly admit that I adore Lekala now. This dress fits unbelievably perfect. Not one single adjustment was required. Not one. Think about that! I literally cut my fabric, sewed at 3/8 inch put it on and voila - PERFECT. No bust adjustment, no length adjustment, no gaping at the front or back neck, nothing.

See even Scotia thinks that a perfect fitting dress sans adjustments is ridiculous. Like WHATTTTT?

I wanted to start out simple. Princess seams are my favourite style and I always lean towards simple. All the dresses I've made to date have had waist seams, this is my first dress without a waist seam. I won't lie, I was worried that I would have all sorts of wrinkles and fabric piling around my middle section. Not flattering. But because of the way Lekala works, by providing all your measurements, the patterns adjust to your body length and fits beautiful.

Perfect shaped princess seams for me.

A pattern that I DON'T have to adjust for narrow shoulders? How much easier is that? Perfect fitting sleeves for for my arm? Yay. Honestly - go buy Lekala. It is SO worth it.

Ps. The snow was so deep but so much fun to play in! Way too cold outside to take coat off for a dress photo.

Details

Pattern: Lekala 4168

Fabric: Viscose Crepe

Price: $3/m 1.5m used

Adjustments: Absolutely NONE

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Grey Wool Circle Skirt

I have always loved the cold weather. I love to bundle up, wear fleece tights and wool accessories to keep warm. So when I found this luxurious 100% grey wool coating for the incredible price of $5/metre I knew it had to be mine. The thickness of it, the soft, furry touch of it, and its colour. It was all perfect material in my eyes.

Since I do love the cold weather, I wanted to make this wool coating into day wear instead of outter wear. Was it possible? It has great drape for a heavy wool coating, but I knew it probably wouldn't take darts without adding substantial bulk and gathers would NOT be happening in this without added 50 lbs to my waist line. And forget that right? So I opted for a simple circle skirt with waist band.

This circle skirt has no side seam. I cut it all as one piece. I love the thought of an endless piece of material. AND no seam means no bulk. That works for me!

I added a metal zipper because I prefer the look of them. I wanted to make it a full exposed zipper but realized that I am still terrible at adding zippers so I ended up with a slashed opening basic zipper insertion. Easy for me. It does cover my metal zipper a bunch, whereas I wanted it full exposed, I am just happy that it turned out as not a hot mess.

There is a small sprinkling of snow of the ground and taking these pictures sans fleece tights wasn't my brightest idea. It was cooooooooooold. And we all know that a circle skirt loves to keep it breezy. And Breezy it was. You can't see it but I have many many goosebumps.Maybe the staunch white colour of my legs is testament to the last time these gams saw the sunlight eh?

Here's to a beautiful winter of fleece tights and wool garments!

Fabric: 100% Wool Coating
Cost: 5$/metre - 0.75m Used
Pattern: Self drafted Circle Skirt with waist band

ps. I still have 2 metres of this wool fabric. I'm thinking a beautiful dress next!

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Purple Spongey - Burda Style #102 (8/2012)

When you see a dress you love you buy the entire magazine. I desperately wanted Burda Style Magazine's 8/2012 Issue. Oh how I wish they would keep and sell old versions. I ordered mine off Ebay for $12, which isn't bad at all, except one problem: It is in German. I just really wanted the patterns. I wouldn't let a little German get in my way. Besides I took a German class once.....10 years ago.... It's in this lil brain of mine SOMEWHERE.

Next we have this FABULOUS purple fabric. My first dress - the lime green LMB dress? - is made of this spongey neoprene-like fabric. Although the colour is a bit Bright. I adored the fabric though. I went into Fabricland, 2 months later, and what do I find? The exact same fabric but in this phenomenal purple shade! I'm in fabric heaven! I hoping they'll keep bringing in this same fabric in all colours of the rainbow. I love it THAT much. It is my PERFECT fabric.

This is ALSO my first Burda Style pattern! This is dress #102 from the 8/2012 issue. It it drafted to have a fitted skirt, but it looked a tad too office-secretary to me (nothing wrong with that if I worked in an office!) but I wanted it to be day-to-day wear, so I used the skirt pattern but created an A-line skirt instead.

Now, thus far, each pattern I have sewn has always required me to shorten the bodice. I have a tiny tiny torso. Like have to shorten 1.5 inches tiny torso. But, I always adjust it AFTER I cut out the pattern pieces just to make sure I don't make it too short. Well, this Burda pattern didn't require any shortening! Not sure if this would be tiny on other people or what but it worked for me perfectly.

I adored the patterns front vertical darts and square waistband. But, without instructions, I wasn't sure how to sew it properly. So I just guessed. It isn't perfect. Or perfectly straight. But I think it is a great start to sewing 90 degree angle panels.

From the time I cut the fabric to the time I finished it, it only took me 5 hours. I'm getting pretty great at this dress-in-a-day thing. It's a thing to me. But, I do admit that this fabric doesn't require any hems or edges. If you cut it straight it doesn't fray. Beautiful. Knits are wonderful that way.

The shoulders a bit fiercer than I would like, but without removing them and drafting another style, I'm not sure how to fix it. In a drapier fabric the shoulders would fall into softer pleats, but this hearty spongey knit holds it shape and sticks STRAIGHT up. But, I like the dichotomy it creates between the sweet A-Line and the Sharp shoulders. Also makes my waist look significantly thinner. YAY thin waist!

Also, the darts. Not my finest. They are really pointy. But the fabric just WON'T make pretty darts. Nothing to be done about it.

Pattern: Burda Style Dress #102 from 8/2012

Size: 44
Fabric: Purple Spongey 100% mixed fibers
Cost: 3m for $12 from Fabricland
Alterations:

• Shorted the skirt by 2 inches
• Sewed the centre pieces together at 1/2 Inch to raise the point of the V for more modesty

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Review: Burda Style Mag Winter 2014

I bee-lined it straight for the craft section of the magazines to see if Barnes&Nobles in the USA had a wider selection than my small Canadian city bookstore store. The USA always has such variety - I love visiting! I get there and notice Burda Style had a different cover. Hmm? Is this new? It's quite thick and says Winter 2014. Hmm a seasonal Burda Style; not a monthly one? What Is This?

Turns out it is the very first issue of the new Burda Style USA! This issue has 40 repeat patterns from previous magazines within - 20 on the two paper insets and 20 available as free print-at-home downloads online. The paper patterns are printed on a thicker pattern than the monthly translated BurdaStyle which is incredible. AND the instructions are more indepth and and AND in PROPER ENGLISH! Written by an English speaker instead of translated? THANK YOU BURDA. I will no longer be left stumped and bubbling with laughter at the terrible translations and clothing descriptions.

In this issue they give you patterns from:

Plus Size - March 03/2013 (The Art of Great Style)
Woman's - December 2012 (Show Stopper & Vintage Dress
Woman's - October 2012 (Modern Sophisticate & Legends of the Fall)
Woman's - August 2012 (Candy Coated)
Woman's - June 2012 (Draped Dress Step-by-Step)

If you have a yearly subscription this issue would be a bust, but since my subscription started in Sept - this magazine more or less has every pattern I wanted out of previous issues. I've even searched eBay for a few of these back issues so I could have the patterns! But now I have them ALL from one $20 magazine. Totally Worth It!

So I'm wondering if Each season will be the same - repeat patterns from past magazines? Or if there will be new products? Hmmmmm. To subscribe or not to subscribe?

Great Job Burda Style USA!

Ps. My favourite patterns are the photos you see here! But More or less ALL of these patterns are GREAT.

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