Showing posts with label sewing pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sewing pattern. Show all posts

20 March 2014

McCalls M6553

When I saw the technical drawing of this pattern I didn't think much of it. But as soon as I saw it made up I fell in love with it. This is M6553 and it is beautiful.
I wanted an easy flow dress. It had to have some structure to prevent the moo-moo look. This dress style fits the bill exactly. The pattern envelope description is: Very loose-fitting, pullover dress has princess seams, self-lined yoke back, side openings for self belt, back pleats/ neck slit with button/thread loop closing, and shaped hemline. Exactly what I needed; shaped front while having a flowing back. 
Surprisingly, I did no alterations to the length of the pattern. For me it turned out the perfect length; hitting at my preferred height in the front 3" above my knee and the back hem 2" below my knee. I only double turned the hem and sewed so only reducing the original length by 1/2" - a very tiny hem.


This dress is included in my Project Sew LA. But before using my beautiful fabric I wanted to make a test garment to check the sizing. I used a green suiting fabric. As per usual, the sizing of this pattern is ridiculous as it says the finished measurement for size 6 (the smallest size) has a 42" bust. Really McCalls? The smallest size is 42" bust? I decided since I'm a 42" bust I needed to make the size 6. It fits me exactly as I wanted it to fit. Because of this, Making this pattern for anybody with a smaller bust will most likely result in a significantly baggy looking dress. 
Also like every great dress it has pockets! Pockets make every dress THAT much better. They are in-seam and they were drafted at the correct height. The tie is what really makes this dress. It cinches the front of the dress and slips through two side openings and wraps around the back inside the dress, thus allowing the back to flow free. To help the dress slip over my head I attached one sew-on snap at the back neck. It is hidden from view on the back as I only sewed it to back facing.
And after this test garment I know that I absolutely adore this dress. It fits almost perfectly, and I have already started to make it out of my fashion fabric! Project Sew LA I will complete you!

Details

Pattern: M6553
Size: 6
Fabric: Green Polyester Suiting
Cost: $8.50
Alterations: None

This dress has some incredible flow my friends. So much flow that when I went for my favourite jump shot the dress flowed right on up and almost made me indecent. That hem is about 1cm from showing my lady bits off, but because it shows nothing but leg, I wanted to share the photo because it is hilarious. My necklace came upside and the photo snapped at an opportune moment - to make it look like I have a silver mustache! What A Beauty!
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27 January 2014

White Sweater Lola - Victory Patterns


Some of the first patterns I purchased were from Victory Patterns. I loved the easy style of the patterns but with the incredible opportunity to be made out of sweater material. I LOVE sweater material and being warm. And in Canada that is ALWAYS required. I purchased Lola, Chloe, and Hazel. 

I tried to make the Hazel. It was one of my first patterns, It turned out TERRIBLY and is about 3 sizes too big. This was before I realized that I should read the finished garment measurements too. Ooops. But after this mishap I put down Victory Patterns because they had discouraged me. 

Cold and Grey is all I've seen all week. It is FREEZING outside and my mood has turned similar. I wanted something that would make me happy and warm. This fabric is a cream sweater fabric that I purchased in July in Toronto. Sweater material in July is a great bargain as it was on sale, BUT, it is fairly useless with the summer heat. So it sat in remained in my fabric storage box taking up half the box. Sweater fabric is BULKY. More so when it comes in a tube. No start and no end.

I cut a size 12 for the top and a 16 for the hips. It turned out more A-line than I wanted originally but is difficult to adjust because of the pockets and omitting the hem band didn't help. It sewed up very quickly on my serger. It was my first time sewing a raglan sleeved item. I was very worried it wouldn't fit and I couldn't test it prior to sewing the top completely. It fit perfectly the first time which I appreciate since nobody likes to bust out the seam ripper for serged edges. I love the raglan sleeve now. I'm browsing all of my pattern magazines looking for more raglan sleeves!

The very obvious alteration I made was to add a large collar instead of a simple neck band. I didn't like where the neck band would sit on me, the basic circle neck isn't really for me. Combining my love of warmth and turtle necks, I added the thick collar. I simply cut a piece of fabric the same length as the collar (next time I'll cut it 1/2 inch smaller than the neck length) and cut the height 12 inches. I followed the same collar instructions as from the Renfrew but using one piece of fabric instead of two.

I love the collar. It is my favourite part of this whole dress now. I can wear it either up to keep me warm or fold it down so I can eat! Very important. Although the cream colour doesn't bode well for stain-free longevity. 

Now, the pockest. GOSH I love these pockets. Although they are gigantic and definitely add width to my hips, I don't even care - they are SO wonderful.

The bottom hem was serged then folded and stitched. I think this added to the slight wavy appearance of the hem. It is more prominent after wear, but when I steam it it appears straighter. Also, I have decided that I will always cut my hemlines with a slight 1 inch high-low to help compensate for my rear end. It makes this dress appear like the hemline is actually straight. But the extra inch in the back really does make me feel more comfortable and that the back of my dress is not SHORTER, which I often feel like it is.
Look at how fast I am mommy!

Details

Size: 12 for top 16 for bottom
Fabric: Cotton sweater
Cost: $6/metre and 2 metres used
Alterations:
  • Added a collar
  • Omitted sleeve and hem bands - Turn and Stitched instead
  • Shortened the pattern by 3 inches in the front and 2 inches in the back. Slight High/Low to compensate for my rear end which looks like an even hem from the side.

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15 January 2014

Review: Manequim September 2013


This magazine has a plus sized section and more of the patterns are size 42/44 than any other size which for me is absolutely perfect because I generally wear a 42 shoulders and 46 waist. Perfect and easy for re-sizing. I could even just use a stretch material in a size 42 versus a woven to make them fit. Excellent. I like when life is easy.




This magazine has some really beautiful styling to showcase the garments. The fabric pattern and colours are spectacular, the makeup is clean and the poses are fun (especially with the mirror reflections). The only thing I dislike is that they showcase MANY pieces of clothing for which patterns are NOT included for. Sometimes these non-pattern pieces look like the showpiece. So I feel they could have selected a more neutral colour for all non-patterned pieces so that my eyes aren't immediately drawn to them and then let down upon finding out I can't make them myself.


The girl on the Right is wearing two outfits which patterns are not provided.



Number of Patterns in each size category:
Size 36 = 2 | Size 38 = 6 | Size 40 = 5 | Size 42 = 12
Size 44 = 10 | Size 46 = 3 | Size: 48 = 3 | Size 50 = 3 | Size 52 = 2

Technical Drawings from the magazine (self-taken poor quality - my bad)














Favourite Patterns: 414, 407, 403, 396, 395, 394, 393, 392, 386, 380

My favourite Pattern of the entire magazine is #393 - the grey piped with black dress below. STUNNING. I've actually already started making it. I don't have leather to make the accent lines so I'm debating if I should use black ponte instead as I used a ponte for the main body.

Out of 36 Patterns I immediately want to make 10 of them. And there are a few more that I would use.

This magazine is a win. I definitely wish I could get an AFFORDABLE subscription to it!
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