Purple Chiffon V1102

I love this PATTERN! I have officially found the pattern that I feel is me. Everything about it makes me so utterly happy: the open back, the back ties, the high neck, boat neck, empire waist, flowy skirt. I made this dress for a wedding I was attending and it is my first time sewing with a chiffon fabric. Maybe sewing on a deadline isn't a great time to pick a new-to-me fabric that is notoriously slippy and difficult to sew with? Maybe? Nahhhh....

The chiffon is 100% polyester. I didn't splurge on it. But I adored the pattern and bought it as soon as it went on sale. Since the fabric was sheer and the pattern has a full lining, I didn't want the seams to show through to the front so I decided to underline all the chiffon with a white cotton I had in my stash as well as fully line it with a light grey rayon lining.

Look at that bow - LOOK AT IT!!! I'm in love! So much in love. I left the bow unlined as I felt it would be nicer with just the chiffon.

And since the fabric had more droop to it than my last version in 100% cotton I added elastic to the waist seam to keep things more accentuated. Basically I wanted a little added boost for the ladies and to give myself some definition around the middle instead of blob shaped.

I decided to use a simple gathered skirt once again over a circle skirt but cut a high-low hem line because they are my favourite. I cut the lining to mid-thigh length to showcase the chiffon on top and its see-through qualities. Gotta show a little leg amiright ladies? In a classy way of course! (ps - look at that skirt...it has some serious flow!)

To showcase how well the bodice fits across my chest and a little of the arm scythe. So much more comfortable to wear a well fitted garment.

The fabric has a slight crepe texture to it but look at those beautiful colours! All seams are completed on the serger and this fabric is cheap cheap cheap so it frayed something fierce. Ugh. It won't last too long which is sad but it fulfilled its purpose of dancing its heart out at my friends wedding (She made her own wedding dress - it was stunning!)

Details

Pattern: Vogue 1102

Size: 14

Fabric: Polyester Chiffon

Alterations:

• Twisted a Wedge from the arm scythe into the waist darts
• Gathered skirt with hi-low hem
• Removed an inch from the centre back bodice for better lower back coverage
• Added elastic to the waist seam
• Omitted the facings and only used a full lining
• Invisible zipper and no hook and eye (too lazy to put one in)

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White&Grey Easy Summer M6955

Summer lovin - happens so fast! Too bad I'm too lazy to bust out the GOOD camera. So you're welcome to peruse these lovely iphone photos. Great quality eh? Good ol self timer app!

Fabricland had a sale on all of the cotton sateen fabrics and at $4/metre I couldn't go wrong. Lovely prints too! I bought 4 different cotton sateen's and immediately started scheming what I wanted to make. During a recent $1.99 sale on the McCall's website I ordered 10 or so patterns, one of which was M6955: a Laura Ashley Easy project. 

I adored the racer back of the dress and figured the cotton sateen would be perfect for the silhouette of the dress. The fabric would also help the dress to feel snug against my body but still provide me with lots of breathing room with the stretch content. Yay!

I made a fair few adjustments to the pattern. I cut out a size 10 because I wanted to accommodate for the stretch of the fabric and opted to finish my dress with binding instead of bias tape to reduce bulk and make my life 100% easier. This type of finish is the quickest for me while using my serger. the more projects I can complete using only my serger the better! I busted out this dress in >3 hours total from cutting to wearing. 

Back to those alterations I was talking about. After completing my Flora bodice, Belladone Bodice, and V1102 Bodice I began to notice how the flat pattern bodice needed to look for it to fit my body shape better. As soon as I cut out this flat pattern, it looked nothing like I knew it should to fit me. It would fit terribly straight from the envelope. So I starting slicing into the neckline and taking out wedges as I knew the neckline would gape - I then evened out the curve of the neckline. I did this to both the front and back necklines. I also took wedges out from the shoulder strap and turned the straps inwards to fit my narrow shoulders better (bodice shoulders always fall off my shoulders - they never will again!). Next I twisted out a dart from the arm scythe in to the waist darts. By the end my tissue pattern pieces were covered in tape missing all sorts of chunks and pieces. And finally, no dress is complete without the addition of in-seam pockets! I really should have used a lining fabric for those instead of the cotton sateen as they are quite bulky and make the circle skirt stick out across my hips.

The only changes I'll make for my next version of this would be to lengthen the bodice by 1/2" so the waist seam sits a little more comfortable when I move and lengthen the skirt by 1" and opt for 3/4 or 1/2 circle skirt instead of the full circle (which really likes to catch that breeze). Other than that, I put an invisible (or not so invisible) zipper in the centre back, finished my binding edges at the back neck above the zipper (and refused to put a hook and eye out of sheer laziness), and turned and stitched my hemline. The entire dress (besides the darts and zipper insertion) is finished on my serger - Yay for quick dresses! And YAY for easy summer cotton dresses!

Details

Pattern: M6955
Size: 10
Fabric: Cotton Sateen
Adjustments:

• Removed a wedge out of the front neckline to reduce gaping
• Removed 1" from the shoulder length
• Took out a dart from the arm scythe and turned it into the bust darts
• Removed a wedge out of the back neckline to reduce gaping
• Finished the edges with binding instead of a facing to reduce thickness.
• Added in-seam pockets to the circle skirt.

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Painted Ponte - Manequim Oct 2013 #393

Sometimes you see a pattern and you just have to make it. This pattern from the October 2013 Manequim magazine pattern was one of them. The pieced bodice was interesting, and I adored their sample dress with the leather piping along the seams. I wish I could replicate that dress exactly.

When I decided to make the dress I knew I would have to make some changes. One major change was using a Ponte knit fabric instead of a woven. The pattern came in size 38 only, I topically make a size 42, and sans drafting skills I didn't know how to grade the pattern so took the easy route and make it up in a stretchy fabric. 

The only thing I forgot when switching to a knit was that could have cut the back pieces on the fold. But with the front bodice piecing, extra seam lines don't detract from the design of the dress. 

The second change I decided on was opting for an A-line skirt instead of the figure hugging option in the magazine. I knew if I made that exact dress I would never wear it as everybody would ask me when my due date was (....I'm not pregnant). I like to avoid setting myself up for those types of scenarios folks! I used the skirt from the Belladone dress which is my new favourite!

The bodice has a one piece facing which I lengthened to below my bust line as there is little I hate more than seeing the line of facing showing through across the top of my bust. simple modification and adds extra "hold" for the ladies. I like the snug feel when wearing Ponte knits but also the comfort that the Ponte isn't showing every lump and bump. That ain't pretty folks!  

I actually sewed this bodice up around Christmas time. Christmas in canada is freezing, so go figure I'd try sewing a sleeveless bodiced dress right? I make great decisions. But once I'd pieced the bodice together I put it in my unfinished project basket and it got lost in the vortex. I only refound it while moving my sewing space all downstairs. I fell instantly back in love with the painted Ponte fabric and the pieces bodice and decided to finish it. 1 hour later it was done. 

Isn't it funny how you gain and lose motivation? This bodice sat alone for 6 months unloved and one whimsical day I pick it up and finish it all in an hour?? Funny how things work. But it's all good because now that we're finally seeing some summer here It's all suns out guns out!

And finally let's talk about this stunning fabric shall we? I found it at fabricland, it most certainly is a polyester Ponte Roma fabric, but it has the most lovely painted flowers on it. Not just appear to be painted on, actually painted on. If you pick really really hard the paint can come off! it's such a cool fabric! I'm glad I buy fabric in 3m chunks as I now have some extra I might use for shoulders or sleeves of tshirt a. It's so lovely I want to use every scrap! I find of wish is purchased more as it's comfortable to wear. 

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Flocked Flower Belladone

Finally, after a long time, I am a part of the Belladone lovers club! And I'm infatuated. This dress is just adorable. I always loved the pattern, especially that green fabric the sample dress is made of. And OH I love this dress!

The fabric is a grey cotton with black flocked flowers. It has the slightest amount of stretch, just enough to make a tighter dress still breathable. I found the fabric at the value village in town and I'm fairly certain it is supposed to be curtain or pillow fabric. It's a very nice fabric that I found absolutely perfect for dress-making.

Fitting wise I took the advice of many many many other bloggers that I follow online and adjusted the back pieces to reduce gaping. I took out 1/2" out of the neckline pieces as well as another 1/2" out of the front bodice. About 2 inches up the V from the centre of the lower piece of the back bodice I removed a 1/2" to accommodate my rounded back. And finally, one last adjustment, I took a 1/4" dart out of the front arm scythe and twisted it into the bust dart.

After attaching the waist band, I realized the bodice was a little short so I sewed it on at 3/8" instead of 5/8" to add some length to the bodice so the skirt would sit more naturally. And let's talk about this skirt. I LOVE this skirt. It is by far my favourite skirt pattern I've used. The slash pockets are beautiful and the front pleats sit beautifully. The only skirt adjustment I made was turning the back skirt darts in to pleats for added bum space.

I decided to use black bias tape to finish the dress as I like the way it accentuates the back cut out and the beautiful lines of the pockets. My bias binding it's perfect and you can see the ripples in some spots - I don't mind that, it isn't horrendous. I opted against black piping at the waist seam as I felt it would make me look wider. Also, since I could slip into the dress, I sewed the centre back together at the bias tape and started the invisible zipper just below. I like the clean finish this adds to the back instead of a hook and eye.

All and all this one of my favourites. It fits nice and snug and all the cute details make me so happy. I feel adorable when I wear this dress in public and isn't that what we all want when wearing our me-mades? This one is a success - There will be many more Belladone dresses in my future.

Details

Pattern: Deer & Doe Belladone
Size: 12
Fabric: Cotton?
Alteration: 

• 1/4" dart from arm scythe twisted into the bust dart
• 1/2" removed from front bodice neckline to reduce gaping
• 1/2" wedge removed from upper back piece
• 1/2" wedge removed from lower back piece near centre back.

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Ahoy hoy V1102

Ahoy hoy friends of summer! Long time no bloggy blog.

So, I've been sewing.....just not blogging. The weather has been terrible for the past month until recently. And the sun is now shining so bright you hear me protest loudly every time I step indoors. I want to relish this weather. And how does one do that? In a beautiful sun dress of course!

This is V1102. The first paper pattern I ever purchased. And, it took be over a year to make it. But my love for this pattern persisted and I found this luscious anchor 100% cotton fabric that I just knew would keep this dress style in a playful mood for me.

I cut the size 16 and did a 1 inch full bust adjustment. Through flat pattern measuring I knew that both the neckline and the armholes would gap. To mend these, I took 1/2" wedge out of the neckline as well as 1/4" wedge out of the armhole and twisted both of those into the dart. I made a muslin of only the bodice and realized that the back was gaping so I removed two sets of 1/4" wedges, one of each opposite curve, on the back piece and removed 1 inch from the centre back as there was lots of overlap there.

Phew, adjustments right?

Well, they were all worth it. I went ahead and cut my anchors fabric, making sure that the grainline was straight as could be, and put my faith in my body molding to this new pattern cause I did everything I could to make the pattern mold to me! And it worked!

The get a crisp edge to my bodice, I lined did a full lining out of Bemberg Rayon. (Ps, Fabricland was switching lining distributors and sold their entire lining selection for $1/m. I bought 40 metres of lining. Black, Navy, light Grey, and a very soft yellow. Yay for cheap!)  I also tried really hard to avoid anchor nipples, but I only partially succeeded  with one anchor not getting FULLY hidden into the dart. Whatcha gonna do right?

Now, the instructions for this pattern are a little wonky because there are too many pattern pieces. They have you do both a full lining AND facings. What? WHY. That's ridiculous. So I opted to only do a full lining. I actually didn't follow the instructions because after one read through I was thoroughly confused and didn't need them. My preferred lining method is to sew the shoulder seams, sew the lining to the neckline and armholes, and finally pull the pieces through the shoulder seam, then finally stitching the side seams together.

The only difference with V1120, is the back ties, this made the full lining slightly more difficult. I simply sewed the back ties to the bodice, and sewed the lining really carefully, being careful to not sew the ties to the lining. It got a bit snug, while attaching the lining with the ties tucked underneath, so I sewed really slowly.

After I made the bodice, I decided against the recommended circle skirt. I have a lot of circle skirts, wanted it to be a little more casual. I opted for a simple gathered skirt with in seam pockets. I used the entire 60" width of the fabric for the front and back pieces. Gathered with my sewing machine with the tension on 9, and serged all seams, including the waist seam.

I finished this dress in a day. The only problem with sewing a dress in a day, on a Sunday at that, is having to work with what you have on hand, and I sadly only had a purple invisible zipper on hand. I worked with is, but I do regret it as the back tab is very visible in the back, but I don't care enough, because CUTE DRESS FOR WORK ON MONDAY!

I feel like a cupcake in this dress and it makes me SO happy!

Details

Pattern: Vogue 1102
Size: 16
Fabric: 100% Cotton
Alteration: 

• 1" Full bust adjustment
• 1/2" reduction to neckline twisted into dart
• 1/2" reduction to arm scythe twisted into dart
• 1" taken out of back middle seam
• 1/4" wedges removed from back pattern piece to reduce gaping
• Used a gathered skirt 

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Me-Made-May'14 Week 3

ANd then there were some repeats. this week I really tried to bust out all of my me-Mades, but I just couldn't resist the comfort of my favourite pieces. 

Day 12: striped pencil skirt

Worn to: work in an office

Pattern: self drafted 

Thoughts: love this knit skirt. Easy to wear. After many hours of wear and if it's hot and I sweat the record isn't great and the back sags a little. Oops. 

Day 13: drape drape dress no photo

Worn to: work

Pattern: drape drape no.10

Thoughts: I forgot to take a photo. My bad. But this dress is amazingly comfortable. I still need to make it into a shirt. 

Day 14: test flora

Worn to: work

Pattern: Flora tank dress By Hand London

Thoughts: this was my test garment for the flora before I made my spring version with all the alterations. You can see even in this photo it's loose around the neck and across the chest. But that's ok,  the purple gabardine is lovely to wear and gives this skirt some serious volume. 

Day 15: knit sweater

Worn to: work

Pattern: Aspen Cardigan by Hot Patterns

Thoughts: the fit of this cardigan isn't great. It was supposed to stay open but it hangs down awkwardly so I pinned it across in a wrap which I prefer a lot more. I love this material but it is very stretchy so doesn't held it's shape well. 

Day 16: Knit concert tee

Worn to: work

Pattern: Summer concert tee by DixieDIY

Thoughts: amazing. Simply amazing. There isn't one thing I don't love about this shirt. it's a staple for me now. 

Day 17: White and comfy

Worn to: lounging in the house (thus the bare legs)

Pattern: Lola by Victory Patterns

Thoughts: such a great pattern, and with my added collar it is extra warm and cozy. It shrunk slightly in the wash so the length is now a tad on the short side, but if I wear yoga pants underneath its fine, ui just wouldn't feel comfortable wearing only tights any longer. 

Day 18: repeat offender from day 16

Worn to: work

Pattern: summer concert tee by DixieDIY

Thoughts: clearly I love this look as it's the second time I've worn it this week. Not one thing changed. Not even my skirt. So comfortable. I'll be making many more very soon. 

and that marks my third week of Me-Made-May. I've done well trying to grab all of my me-Mades, but I can't help but want to wear my favourites again and again. 

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Casual Comfort in the my Concert Tee

And then there was a need for a casual shirt. The summer concert tee fit the bill to a tee (har har). This sweater knit and the pattern merged to make a beautiful beautiful garment. Gosh I love this shirt.

I realized after 15 days of me-made-May that I really have not sewn any separates. Only one Mable skirt. How is that possible considering I wear knit skirts every second day? I needed more tops. And I recently purchased a beautiful top from Anthropologie and I wanted to make a duplicate. The Concert Tee pattern is very similar to my sweater so I thought I'd make it up and then determine if it was worth the effort to pattern hack it into an exact replica of my RTW sweater. (Answer: It is, and I will be pattern hacking).

This pattern is a very simple one with only 4 pieces: front, back, sleeve, and collar. The biggest challenge for me was trying to decide where I wanted my pattern to go.This pattern is an excellent blend of baggy and loose, it fits me well across the neck, arms, and bust, and flows free below. The hi-low hem of the shirt is also great for extra pizzazz!

It look me less than 2 hours to make, with 1/2 hour of it dedicated to taping the PDF together. I love the instant gratification of PDF's but do I ever HATE taping them together. Ugh.

The only alteration I made was to raise the neckline as as not to disrupt the pattern. I also used clear elastic on every seam to stabilize the knit and hopefully add more life to my shirt as I wash and wear this shirt repeatedly!

 I decided that the pattern should be centered down both the front and back, bugger the side seams. But pattern placement is OH so VERY VERY important. It isn't TOO noticeable, at least, I hope it isn't, but does anybody else see my Star nipples and my V shaped butt crack in the back? Oops. Now that I pointed it out, that's all you can see isn't it? Shucks....

Details

Pattern: Summer Concert Tee by Dixie DIY
Size: Large
Fabric: Sweater Knit (Purcahsed in Los Angeles)
Alteration: Raised the neckline by 1.5"

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