Showing posts with label knit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label knit. Show all posts

04 August 2014

Painted Ponte - Manequim Oct 2013 #393

Sometimes you see a pattern and you just have to make it. This pattern from the October 2013 Manequim magazine pattern was one of them. The pieced bodice was interesting, and I adored their sample dress with the leather piping along the seams. I wish I could replicate that dress exactly.

When I decided to make the dress I knew I would have to make some changes. One major change was using a Ponte knit fabric instead of a woven. The pattern came in size 38 only, I topically make a size 42, and sans drafting skills I didn't know how to grade the pattern so took the easy route and make it up in a stretchy fabric. 

The only thing I forgot when switching to a knit was that could have cut the back pieces on the fold. But with the front bodice piecing, extra seam lines don't detract from the design of the dress. 

The second change I decided on was opting for an A-line skirt instead of the figure hugging option in the magazine. I knew if I made that exact dress I would never wear it as everybody would ask me when my due date was (....I'm not pregnant). I like to avoid setting myself up for those types of scenarios folks! I used the skirt from the Belladone dress which is my new favourite!

The bodice has a one piece facing which I lengthened to below my bust line as there is little I hate more than seeing the line of facing showing through across the top of my bust. simple modification and adds extra "hold" for the ladies. I like the snug feel when wearing Ponte knits but also the comfort that the Ponte isn't showing every lump and bump. That ain't pretty folks!  


I actually sewed this bodice up around Christmas time. Christmas in canada is freezing, so go figure I'd try sewing a sleeveless bodiced dress right? I make great decisions. But once I'd pieced the bodice together I put it in my unfinished project basket and it got lost in the vortex. I only refound it while moving my sewing space all downstairs. I fell instantly back in love with the painted Ponte fabric and the pieces bodice and decided to finish it. 1 hour later it was done. 

Isn't it funny how you gain and lose motivation? This bodice sat alone for 6 months unloved and one whimsical day I pick it up and finish it all in an hour?? Funny how things work. But it's all good because now that we're finally seeing some summer here It's all suns out guns out!


And finally let's talk about this stunning fabric shall we? I found it at fabricland, it most certainly is a polyester Ponte Roma fabric, but it has the most lovely painted flowers on it. Not just appear to be painted on, actually painted on. If you pick really really hard the paint can come off! it's such a cool fabric! I'm glad I buy fabric in 3m chunks as I now have some extra I might use for shoulders or sleeves of tshirt a. It's so lovely I want to use every scrap! I find of wish is purchased more as it's comfortable to wear. 


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07 April 2014

Comfy Blue Knit Jacket - Lekala 4163


Let me introduce you to my weather appropriate sweater. 


This sweater comes custom sized from Lekala. The only problem is, one must remember that seam allowances are not included when cutting the fabric. I forgot. Thus, it is slightly snugger than it needs to be, but thank goodness for knit fabric. 


This knit fabric is a royal blue with black scratch lines on it. A nice subtle pattern for a sweater jacket. It is unlined and I added bands around all the edges to make the finishings easier so I could do everything on my serger. 


The back of the sweater has princess seams. That is the reasoning behind calling it a sweater jacket. 


This was my first garment that has two-piece sleeves. I will openly admit that I didn't even look at the instructions. Lekala instructions may possibly be worse than Burdas; they are vague to say the least. So I aligned my sleeve seams to the bodice and stitched. Errr... Nope. Got it wrong. Wrong seam alignment. Step in magical seam ripper and try again. Set the sleeves in correctly the second time! 


Overall, I do love this sweater. It's fancy enough for work but is still utterly comfortable. The front draping is fun, and in this thicker knit fabric adds great shape. I think this would be a perfect sweater to remake in a plain black rayon knit. Drapier, thinner fabric would produce a garment similar to the photo, but would be an amazing staple!

I'm just realizing that my hair has gotten really long! Everybody keeps telling me this, but I had short hair the majority of my life, I still feel it's short. These photos are proving me wrong. Yay it's grown!


Details

Pattern: Lekala 4163 - Knit Jacket
Fabric: Acrylic double knit fabric
Cost: $7


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01 April 2014

Los Angeles Fabric Haul

Where's Chrystal?
I was excited for the Los Angeles Fabric District. I read many articles about what stores to visit and the etiquette (or lack there of) in buying fabric in the district. 

The most important points before you go shopping to me are:
  • Bring cash, smaller bills required. No where but Michael Levine's takes Credit Cards
  • Carry a backpack or suitcase to carry all your fabric in - it gets heavy really fast
  • Be prepared to haggle over prices. It is expected that you counter their offer.
  • Don't wear bulky clothing or anything that restricts your movements - you'll be navigating through tiny shops with many bolts sticking out at off angles and it can get really hot.
The fab


Now lets check out my haul shall we?
So. Much. Knit!


Floral Knits:


Rayon sweatshirt knit
Rayon Knit
Tissue Rayon Knit

Tribal Knits:

Rayon Knit

Double Knit
Sweatshirt Knit
Sweatshirt Knit
Tissue Knit
Rayon Jersey
Polyester Jersey

Stripe Knits:


Cotton t-shirt material
Acrylic Sweatshirt Knit
Cotton Jersey

Cotton:

Cotton

Silks (Mood Fabrics):



TL: Silk Charmeuse TR: Silk Jersey BL: Silk Charmeuse BR: Silk Crepe

Not shown: Green Double Knit, Green Wool




Phew. I'm so in awe of my fabric haul!!!



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22 January 2014

A Faux Wrap Dress Convert

New red lipstick mmmmhmmmm
When I purchased the Rayon knit fabric for my Renfrew top, there was another design in the same rayon. I wanted it too. I can't help it, when I see a deliciously soft rayon knit I have to have it. I KNOW it'll be luxurious to wear, so even without a plan in mind I bought it. BAD ME.

But, after the completion of my Renfrew, and wearing it constantly, I knew this rayon wanted to be converted in to a wrap dress of some type. Now, this is an extremely strange thought for me to have because I don't actually enjoy wearing wrap dresses. I have only had one, but I hated it. It was so uncomfortable and pulled at all the wrong places, so instead of the shape-flattering characteristics typical to wrap dresses, I felt like a blimp. NEVER something that you want to feel like. And that negative impression remained. For 10 years. WOW I certainly know how to hold  grudge eh? But then this rayon entered my life, and the idea of a wrap dress wouldn't leave my mind. So I submitted to the fabric's will and made a wrap dress.



I didn't have a pattern until I went to the Salvation Army and the only pattern not circa 1980's-shoulder-pad-extravaganza was this one: McCall's 5974, toted as The Perfect Knit Dress. It was meant to be - my beautiful Rayon fabric would be A Dress with Wraps (My take on a wrap dress), and maybe even a perfect one at that! So I skipped the whole way home, pattern in hand, singing "Do You Believe in Magic?".
Lovely pleats on the skirt which are hidden under the wrap ties.

Thankfully I was browsing PatternReview.com and decided to read a few reviews for M5974. My Skepticism at the statement "The Perfect Knit Dress" was creeping up quickly and I needed to placate myself prior to cutting into my rayon (which at this point I had been stroking lovingly and rubbing against my cheek). Every review immediately pointed out that McCalls had gone and done it again and made this pattern HUGE. Especially for a knit. Once again, Reading pays off! I decided to cut the size 8 after measuring the tissue pattern and felt that some negative ease is necessary for such a slinky fabric.

(My ties are ridiculously long. Contrary to most reviews which state they are on the short side)

I ignored the instructions as I so frequently do. Oops. It was just too simple to require them. So I hunkered down with my serger and zip-zip-zip I was done. Ok, I wish that was true, I have a few pleats to sew with my machine in both the bodice and skirt front, and then I spent more minutes than I care to admit to trying to figure out which way to attach the wraps so that they wouldn't be backwards. But I'm proud to say I got it correct on the first try. Yay me!
The bottom of my skirt is Off, it isn't JUST the photo.


But, Overall it went together quickly and it fits rather perfectly.  After taking off 6 inches off the length due to fabric restrictions, I wish I had added more length to the back to accommodate my derrier. But we sew and we learn right?
What you doing crazy Owner-Lady?

Details

Pattern: McCall's M5974
Size: 8
Fabric: Rayon Jersey
Cost: $8 total
Alterations:
  • Shortened the length by a good 6 inches or so
  • Cut the Sleeve pattern to have negative ease
  • Narrow shoulder adjustment (to reduce fabric pooling over my shoulders)
  • Serged all seams including edges, then stitched them under
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08 January 2014

When Cowl Neck Dreams Come True


When I first started sewing last summer, I spent a significant amount of time browsing the websites of independent pattern companies. I loved the praise they received for both the drafting and instructions. As a newbie sewer, I wanted my projects to be successful, so those traits were highly appealing to me. And I also like to hoard things so I bought the Sewaholic Renfrew pattern during this pattern buying spree.

The renfrew was calling me name; cowl neck, knit, and great for every day casual wear. It was MINE, all mine. But, the pattern remained tucked away in my drawer, untouched, unloved, because knits? I'm new - lets not frightened myself away from my newly acquired skill with a massive knit failure. So it sat. Finally, 6 months later, newly owned serger in possession, I was ready and equipped to make my first renfrew.


The fabric I used is a rayon/spandex blend, soft to the touch with a nice non-clingy drape. The pattern is simple but interesting, and reminds me of actual knitting with all those V markings. But Rayon, oh rayon, how I DO love it. I'm trying really hard to find and use non-polyester fabrics. And this rayon was found in the clearance section for $2/metre. I love a great bargain.

So I started cutting out my fabric. Cut cut cut. Moved to the sewing room and started following the instructions.I get to the cowl and it says "sew the two pieces lengthwise". And I stare blankly. Two pieces? Oops, I only cut one and was out of fabric. NOW what do I do? I headed back to Fabricland in search of 0.5m more of fabric but it is gone. My beautiful Rayon, gone. So I made due, I bought solid black rayon for the inside of the cowl neck.



This pattern was a dream to sew. It took me less than an hour of sewing time and less than 3 hours in total (not including the second trip to the fabricstore). I liked that the sleeves were sewn to the arm hole and then the side seams and underarm seams were sewn together. Significantly easier than fitting a sleeve after its already a tube.


I sewed a size 42 but afterwards the shoulder seam was too wide so I serged it 1.5 inches closer. The stretch in the knit was forgiving and made this adjustment easy without ruining the fit at all.

The cowl is gigantic. It can ALMOST be worn as a hood. Next time I make it, I'll raise the neckline in the front and make the cowl smaller. It is a tad too loose for my usual liking, but you know what? I adore this fabric and I adore that my first foray into the world of knits was a success!  Yay for Knits!

Pattern: Renfrew by Sewaholic Patterns
Size: 42
Fabric: Rayon/Spandex knit
Cost: $2/metre
Alterations:
  • Serged the shoulder seams up 1.5 inches because I forgot to due a narrow shoulder adjustment prior to cutting my fabric.

With the temperatures at -50C I won't have ANY outdoor photos for awhile.
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