Review: Burda Style April 2014

Let me start with saying WOW! The April issue is my FAVOURITE Burda magazine I have ever read! Page after Page, Pattern after Pattern I was blown away at how amazing this months issue was! Just stunning!

So lets start looking at all the photos right?!?!?

This shirt? Incredible. I was JUST looking at this style in the store the other day and contemplating how I could re-create it myself. Well - Burda heard my thoughts and replicated it just in time for me. Also, these capri pants look great. I have a RTW pair currently that I love but that have seen better days - hopefully this pattern will enable me to recreate them? Hopefully without TOO many fit adjustments as I've never tackled pants before?

These style lines! LOVELY! Everything about this dress is beautiful. I love the crisp white, the boatneck, the triangular princess bodice, the double skirt with pockets. Such a classic look. This will be my first make out of this issue for certain.

Now, There is something SO easy about this pattern. I prefer the dress version to the shirt version, but I LOVE the draping involved. I hope that it would sit flat and now simply billow out in front, but on the model it looks so elegant (left). This entire photoshoot is SO well done.

Turtle necks pull at my heart strings. I LOVE this dress. The asymmetrical sleeves are such a nice touch to take a simple shape in to a unique one. Make this out of a nice jersey print and you have a staple every day dress! Atleast for my style! Now lets start on this skirt. RIGHT?!?!? The panels, high waist, and in seam pockets. And it doesn't hurt that the fabric choice (right) is a perfect match for the skirt. 

Immediately upon seeing this pattern I thought of Papercut Patterns Pleated Pant. They are classic but unique. They would help add a special touch to all my turtle necks. Make them out of a black suiting and you have some stylish work pants! Also, Burda is great at jackets and this one is lovely. I love the large front flaps of the coat and the models jacket is very cute with the jeweled clasp. 

I want to be the kind of girl that can wear jumpsuits and look amazing. Look at Sew Dixie Lou's recent post - now SHE can wear a jumpsuit! LOOK at that thing! I wish I could do that. But I will simply have to appreciate them from afar. But regardless - I LOVE this pattern and appreciate it's inclusion even if I never use it personally! Both model versions look spectacular. The White one has creases down the front.

Three little dresses this way come! All three have their own place in my wardrobe. That middle one (#124) in particular. I adore the models polka dot fabric and would love to make it up in a red polka dot. SO cute! #127 als looks like a simple summer every-day dress. Nice shoulder pulls for a little detail. Works great for a busy print. #118 looks like I'd make it in a dark navy and wear it as a staple to work under all my crazy print blazers!

I like the detail of the half faux cross bodice but don't know how flattering this shape would be on me. But I like the way it looks on both the models. But I just ave to point out that they should have lined that green dress and you can see straight through that fabric and the models legs are on full display. Oops.

This pattern comes in the three versions. Shirt with 3/4 sleeves, sleeveless, and halter. They all have the same basic bodice front but the bodice back is fuller and they simply added sleeves. I actually like when they show a patterns variety because it helps me better understand pattern construction and opens my mind to how I can alter other patterns I already own.

As always, Burda included two staple jacket shapes. I wouldn't make either but they could both be useful.

For me, the only pattern worth mentioning from the Plus sizes is this twist front shirt. The wrap front is flatting and the twist will help hide all those stomach bits that tight clothes like to showcase. This is definitely something I could see myself wearing in a lovely wool knit. I can't wait.

Now that you've previewed the majority of the patterns from this issue (I didn't include the kids/mens patterns as I could care less about those) what is your opinion? Don't you agree that Burda did almost everything right in this months issue?!?! So amazing. GREAT job Burda - keep up the amazing work!

I can't wait to get this issue in the mail! I just want to squeal in anticipation!

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New Year New Dress

 

All my Christmas dreams came true this year; I received a Serger! A Brother 1034D to be exact! I couldn't be more thrilled because now I EASILY have finished edges on ALL my items AND be able to tackle knits without hassle.

New Years is always the best excuse to dress up- Pretty Little Dress for me! For Christmas I also received this stunning flower tulle. Look at it! I'm in love. It has all that texture and has that drama factor I love! All in one easy to sew fabric. Luckily this flower tulle had stretch to it which set my mind at ease knowing I wouldn't ruin my fabric sans zipper.

This fabric is almost identical to the one used in the new Burda Magazine (01/2014) to showcase The Rose Dress #107 and the similarities were too much for me NOT to make that dress out of it. It is one of my favourite patterns from that issue.

I busted out my tracing paper and pencil, and traced the size 42. Typically I would size up with Burda patterns, but since the plan was to use Ponte Knit for the bodice, I knew I would need a smaller size to accommodate the stretch it the fabric. Turns out I should have cut an even smaller size, but that is ok - ponte's are oh so forgiving that is why we are in love.

From start to finish; tracing to walking out the door; it took me less than 4 hours to make. Talk about speedy sewing! All thanks to my wonderful serger! Life is so easy now. But if you are looking at those photos you will notice something IS amiss; why am I using white thread in my serger on a black dress?!? Turns out, many a folk stocked up on serger thread because when I went in to buy spools, they only had 2 black spools left! Jokes right? So, I made due, and used black thread in my upper looper and left needle and white in the lower looper and right needle. Maybe I should have used black in both my loopers, but I just got it - forgive my lack of knowledge!

But while holding back tears in the fabric shop, a clerk told me a wonderful secret; when changing threads, instead of re-threading the machine, simply snip the thread at the spool and tie that end to the new thread colour. Thread the machine slowly, and your before your the knot ends reaches your needles, snip them apart and thread the needle with the new colour. Both upper and lower loopers will be threaded without having to follow the arrows! Easy! Sure this doesn't improve my knowledge of the inner workings of my serger, but easier is always better (until its not). So I'm sticking with that! Thanks Fabricland clerk!

Back to my dress! I didn't bother reading the instructions. Sorry, not sorry. Burda's instructions are more confusing than helpful, so I go without. Not sure where the confidence comes from as I am a new seamstress, but more or less all dresses are made the same, and unless they have a specific detail that is different, I don't bother reading instructions (unless they are independent company patterns because those instructions are phenomenal).

I stitched my pleats in the bodice front, folded over my facing (which I cut as one piece with the bodice so that if I ever needed MORE coverage I could let the facing fold roll out without a seamline indicating this wasn't how the dress was supposed to be worn), and sewed the shoulder seams. Voila, bodice complete. When I tried it on, the back bodice had too much stretch and it felt too loose, especially around the neck, so I added two 1 inch darts to the back neckline reducing the neckline by 2 inches total. It helped. Yay for improper but effective fixes. (I know I have narrow shoulders and back, so I SHOULD have adjusted this prior to cutting my fabric, but sometimes I'm just really really lazy)

I serged every seam except my hem, which I used my twin needle on. I tried to do a blind hem with my serger but could not figure it out with such a short deadline, so I opted for my twin needle. No worries here. The waist seam was a monster of a seam for my serger to conquer. But conquer it did. Across the front of the dress there are two layers of pleated bodice (the faux wrap in front), the bulk of the flowered tulle skirt, and another ponte layer for the under skirt. So glad I didn't blow up my serger after only a week in my possession.

I walked into the party, took off my coat (begrudgingly seeing as it was -51 C with Windchill here in Canada that night - BRUTAL RIGHT?) and immediately lapped in the compliments given to my dress, and oh so proudly blurted out I made it myself that day. There is nothing as wonderful as feeling pride in my accomplishments to both end 2013 and commence 2014.

Pattern: #107 Rose Dress - Burda Style 01/2014
Size: 42
Fabric: Ponte di Roma & Flowered Tulle
Cost: FREE (Christmas Presents)
Alterations:

• Added 2 darts to the bodice back neckline to reduce gaping
• Used a half circle skirt for the top Tulle and a tight mini for the Ponte lining
• Cut the Bodice front facing as one with the Bodice Front to eliminate a seam line and to add extra coverage if needed.

Happy New Years to each and every single person who has read to the end of this post!

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Review: Burda Magazine Feb 2014

And the second issue of Burda Magazine for 2014 is only alright. A few nice pieces, but not one of them (for me) is an outstanding, spectacular piece. But they are all nice.

Two nice dresses. I like the square neckline and flounce sleeves.

I like the button down back with the faux waist belt. But I don't think it would look great on me personally.

I don't like the wide pleats on dress #101 - extra material across the front doesn't sound great to me. Pockets on the hips for dress #102 wouldn''t work for my pear shape. Both these dresses has width where I wouldn't want it.

I personally dislike off the shoulder tops so I'd NEVER wear this top. The skirt looks fun but the length is a bit dumpy with the giant pleats.

I don't like crop tops so I wouldn't wear this, even if I lengthened it, the boxy shape wouldn't do me any favours. The extra material on the skirt hips wouldn't be great for me either.

 

The #127 vest is lovely. I like the shoulder details and think it would be great for colour blocking. The skirt is not my style and the top simply looks sloppy. 

Now, the collar detail on these items is really pretty. I like the shirt better than the dress but think it would look best in solid colours.

This jersey top I might wear. I like the spunk it adds to a simple work appropriate outfit. I DISPISE those pants though. Ew. They add hip girth and just remind me of pants I'd wear working outdoors (which I don't do).

Jackets and lots of them. I like all three but none of them enough to make me think about fabric choices or put them on my to-sew list. 

Now, There are more patterns with some faux punk additions of safety pens. Not my style. And the entire section for plus sized patterns are not all that flattering. Again Burda is putting bags on plus sized models. I wish they would just make the normal size dresses in plus sizes. Why bags Burda? Not flattering.

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Review: Burda Style January 2014

The thing about me is that I love winter. Not the numbing cold mind you, but the chance to wear so many layers and anything fleece lined. I actually prefer when the weather drops enough for me to comfortably wear leggings under my dresses rather than summer bare legs. I just love the cozy feeling that thicker clothing and layers provide. Wools, Knits, and a cup of hot chocolate and I'm a happy girl.

So for me, the January Burda Style magazine, with its winter appropriate patterns is one I look forward to. Although this January issue doesn't have too many extreme-warmth looking items, I do think this issue is a winner. But sadly they did include a fur section and once again are trying to pass off a rectangular cut piece of fabric as a pattern. Sorry, that isn't a pattern in my books! And they also included a costume section. YES, the patterns are incredibly adorable and I appreciate the inclusion, BUT not in the January issue; Halloween JUST past, this should be in the August/September issue leading UP to Halloween, not 2 months past it. Bad timing is all.

But lets take a gander at the selection shall we?

Lets start with the GREAT

Minus the applique on the bottom hem I really really really like this dress. Add sleeves and its PERFECT. Nor a winter dress for certain but a dress design that I love. I LOVE turtle necks. FYI.

LOVE this draped tulip shape skirt. I've been waiting for something like this to come up! Can't wait to make it! But that corset...never going to happen. I don't do strapless or corsets. 

I adore these types of pants. I've never personally sewn pants. But I think that if I was going to start than these would be at the top of my list. With a larger waist band. And blending into the fine category is the shirt. Nice gathering. That's about it. I guess I just don't find shirts all that interesting. I don't tend to gravitate towards them to frequently.

I love the included edging on the dress. It is a simple shape, but just adding the extra details make it so much more intriguing to me. I'm not a pattern drafter and don't understand much about it yet, so having patterns pre-made to my liking allows me to sew more easily. Less struggling means more time to sew and be jolly.

I think I like this dress MORE because of the skirt fabric they used. I LOVE all the raised flowers on the fabric. I can't wait to get my hands on some! So this, this pattern is a lovely choice. Nothing we haven't seen before though.

Now we shall move onto the FINE category:

Pretty neat shape and I adore the quilting on the sleeves. But as usual it is very nice of Burda to do it in WHITE and have her crossing her arms? Really? Yes, we don't need to see the details. Don't worry.

This issue has some really pretty plus sized patterns. Forget the baggy shapeless blogs they've been passing off as patterns, This issue's plus sized patterns are all winners; form-fitting, or nice details. I like both the shape of this dress and the colour-blocking paneling. But without a waist seam, I do see the potential for bunching if the fit isn't right between the waist and hip.

The next plus sized pattern is a basic V-neck dress with thick waistband. It is a simple design, but one that can be very flatting. And great for pattern jerseys. Omit that side zipper. it is unnecessary.

And the OK-for-a-Basic Patterns:

Just because it is in a new pattern doesn't make it a new dress. I feel like this shapeless pocketed sheath dress is in every issue now. I won't be making it but it isn't terrible.

Now, as simple as this may be, Made up in that fuzzy looking material gives this simple shape more potential within my wardrobe. Put a belt around it and it could be a go to winter staple for me. Fuzzzzzzzy.

All-in-all I think that Burda is starting the year out right. Yes, I hate the fur section, and I think the Costumes are in the wrong month, but the three other sections are worth it. They have patterns that have risen straight to the top of my to-sew list which is endless. But with Christmas fabric presents heading my way, I couldn't be more excited for this issue to arrive in my mailbox. 

Also, the magazines includes a male shirt and jacket. But I'm a selfish sewing so they are useless to me.

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