04 August 2014

Painted Ponte - Manequim Oct 2013 #393

Sometimes you see a pattern and you just have to make it. This pattern from the October 2013 Manequim magazine pattern was one of them. The pieced bodice was interesting, and I adored their sample dress with the leather piping along the seams. I wish I could replicate that dress exactly.

When I decided to make the dress I knew I would have to make some changes. One major change was using a Ponte knit fabric instead of a woven. The pattern came in size 38 only, I topically make a size 42, and sans drafting skills I didn't know how to grade the pattern so took the easy route and make it up in a stretchy fabric. 

The only thing I forgot when switching to a knit was that could have cut the back pieces on the fold. But with the front bodice piecing, extra seam lines don't detract from the design of the dress. 

The second change I decided on was opting for an A-line skirt instead of the figure hugging option in the magazine. I knew if I made that exact dress I would never wear it as everybody would ask me when my due date was (....I'm not pregnant). I like to avoid setting myself up for those types of scenarios folks! I used the skirt from the Belladone dress which is my new favourite!

The bodice has a one piece facing which I lengthened to below my bust line as there is little I hate more than seeing the line of facing showing through across the top of my bust. simple modification and adds extra "hold" for the ladies. I like the snug feel when wearing Ponte knits but also the comfort that the Ponte isn't showing every lump and bump. That ain't pretty folks!  


I actually sewed this bodice up around Christmas time. Christmas in canada is freezing, so go figure I'd try sewing a sleeveless bodiced dress right? I make great decisions. But once I'd pieced the bodice together I put it in my unfinished project basket and it got lost in the vortex. I only refound it while moving my sewing space all downstairs. I fell instantly back in love with the painted Ponte fabric and the pieces bodice and decided to finish it. 1 hour later it was done. 

Isn't it funny how you gain and lose motivation? This bodice sat alone for 6 months unloved and one whimsical day I pick it up and finish it all in an hour?? Funny how things work. But it's all good because now that we're finally seeing some summer here It's all suns out guns out!


And finally let's talk about this stunning fabric shall we? I found it at fabricland, it most certainly is a polyester Ponte Roma fabric, but it has the most lovely painted flowers on it. Not just appear to be painted on, actually painted on. If you pick really really hard the paint can come off! it's such a cool fabric! I'm glad I buy fabric in 3m chunks as I now have some extra I might use for shoulders or sleeves of tshirt a. It's so lovely I want to use every scrap! I find of wish is purchased more as it's comfortable to wear. 


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27 July 2014

Flocked Flower Belladone


Finally, after a long time, I am a part of the Belladone lovers club! And I'm infatuated. This dress is just adorable. I always loved the pattern, especially that green fabric the sample dress is made of. And OH I love this dress!


The fabric is a grey cotton with black flocked flowers. It has the slightest amount of stretch, just enough to make a tighter dress still breathable. I found the fabric at the value village in town and I'm fairly certain it is supposed to be curtain or pillow fabric. It's a very nice fabric that I found absolutely perfect for dress-making.


Fitting wise I took the advice of many many many other bloggers that I follow online and adjusted the back pieces to reduce gaping. I took out 1/2" out of the neckline pieces as well as another 1/2" out of the front bodice. About 2 inches up the V from the centre of the lower piece of the back bodice I removed a 1/2" to accommodate my rounded back. And finally, one last adjustment, I took a 1/4" dart out of the front arm scythe and twisted it into the bust dart.


After attaching the waist band, I realized the bodice was a little short so I sewed it on at 3/8" instead of 5/8" to add some length to the bodice so the skirt would sit more naturally. And let's talk about this skirt. I LOVE this skirt. It is by far my favourite skirt pattern I've used. The slash pockets are beautiful and the front pleats sit beautifully. The only skirt adjustment I made was turning the back skirt darts in to pleats for added bum space.

I decided to use black bias tape to finish the dress as I like the way it accentuates the back cut out and the beautiful lines of the pockets. My bias binding it's perfect and you can see the ripples in some spots - I don't mind that, it isn't horrendous. I opted against black piping at the waist seam as I felt it would make me look wider. Also, since I could slip into the dress, I sewed the centre back together at the bias tape and started the invisible zipper just below. I like the clean finish this adds to the back instead of a hook and eye.


All and all this one of my favourites. It fits nice and snug and all the cute details make me so happy. I feel adorable when I wear this dress in public and isn't that what we all want when wearing our me-mades? This one is a success - There will be many more Belladone dresses in my future.

Details

Pattern: Deer & Doe Belladone
Size: 12
Fabric: Cotton?
Alteration: 
  • 1/4" dart from arm scythe twisted into the bust dart
  • 1/2" removed from front bodice neckline to reduce gaping
  • 1/2" wedge removed from upper back piece
  • 1/2" wedge removed from lower back piece near centre back.

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30 June 2014

Ahoy hoy V1102

Ahoy hoy friends of summer! Long time no bloggy blog.

So, I've been sewing.....just not blogging. The weather has been terrible for the past month until recently. And the sun is now shining so bright you hear me protest loudly every time I step indoors. I want to relish this weather. And how does one do that? In a beautiful sun dress of course!

This is V1102. The first paper pattern I ever purchased. And, it took be over a year to make it. But my love for this pattern persisted and I found this luscious anchor 100% cotton fabric that I just knew would keep this dress style in a playful mood for me.

I cut the size 16 and did a 1 inch full bust adjustment. Through flat pattern measuring I knew that both the neckline and the armholes would gap. To mend these, I took 1/2" wedge out of the neckline as well as 1/4" wedge out of the armhole and twisted both of those into the dart. I made a muslin of only the bodice and realized that the back was gaping so I removed two sets of 1/4" wedges, one of each opposite curve, on the back piece and removed 1 inch from the centre back as there was lots of overlap there.

Phew, adjustments right?

Well, they were all worth it. I went ahead and cut my anchors fabric, making sure that the grainline was straight as could be, and put my faith in my body molding to this new pattern cause I did everything I could to make the pattern mold to me! And it worked!

The get a crisp edge to my bodice, I lined did a full lining out of Bemberg Rayon. (Ps, Fabricland was switching lining distributors and sold their entire lining selection for $1/m. I bought 40 metres of lining. Black, Navy, light Grey, and a very soft yellow. Yay for cheap!)  I also tried really hard to avoid anchor nipples, but I only partially succeeded  with one anchor not getting FULLY hidden into the dart. Whatcha gonna do right?

Now, the instructions for this pattern are a little wonky because there are too many pattern pieces. They have you do both a full lining AND facings. What? WHY. That's ridiculous. So I opted to only do a full lining. I actually didn't follow the instructions because after one read through I was thoroughly confused and didn't need them. My preferred lining method is to sew the shoulder seams, sew the lining to the neckline and armholes, and finally pull the pieces through the shoulder seam, then finally stitching the side seams together.

The only difference with V1120, is the back ties, this made the full lining slightly more difficult. I simply sewed the back ties to the bodice, and sewed the lining really carefully, being careful to not sew the ties to the lining. It got a bit snug, while attaching the lining with the ties tucked underneath, so I sewed really slowly.

After I made the bodice, I decided against the recommended circle skirt. I have a lot of circle skirts, wanted it to be a little more casual. I opted for a simple gathered skirt with in seam pockets. I used the entire 60" width of the fabric for the front and back pieces. Gathered with my sewing machine with the tension on 9, and serged all seams, including the waist seam.

I finished this dress in a day. The only problem with sewing a dress in a day, on a Sunday at that, is having to work with what you have on hand, and I sadly only had a purple invisible zipper on hand. I worked with is, but I do regret it as the back tab is very visible in the back, but I don't care enough, because CUTE DRESS FOR WORK ON MONDAY!

I feel like a cupcake in this dress and it makes me SO happy!


Details

Pattern: Vogue 1102
Size: 16
Fabric: 100% Cotton
Alteration: 

  • 1" Full bust adjustment
  • 1/2" reduction to neckline twisted into dart
  • 1/2" reduction to arm scythe twisted into dart
  • 1" taken out of back middle seam
  • 1/4" wedges removed from back pattern piece to reduce gaping
  • Used a gathered skirt 
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18 May 2014

Me-Made-May'14 Week 3

ANd then there were some repeats. this week I really tried to bust out all of my me-Mades, but I just couldn't resist the comfort of my favourite pieces. 

Day 12: striped pencil skirt
Worn to: work in an office
Pattern: self drafted 
Thoughts: love this knit skirt. Easy to wear. After many hours of wear and if it's hot and I sweat the record isn't great and the back sags a little. Oops. 

Day 13: drape drape dress no photo
Worn to: work
Pattern: drape drape no.10
Thoughts: I forgot to take a photo. My bad. But this dress is amazingly comfortable. I still need to make it into a shirt. 

Day 14: test flora
Worn to: work
Pattern: Flora tank dress By Hand London
Thoughts: this was my test garment for the flora before I made my spring version with all the alterations. You can see even in this photo it's loose around the neck and across the chest. But that's ok,  the purple gabardine is lovely to wear and gives this skirt some serious volume. 

Day 15: knit sweater
Worn to: work
Pattern: Aspen Cardigan by Hot Patterns
Thoughts: the fit of this cardigan isn't great. It was supposed to stay open but it hangs down awkwardly so I pinned it across in a wrap which I prefer a lot more. I love this material but it is very stretchy so doesn't held it's shape well. 

Day 16: Knit concert tee
Worn to: work
Pattern: Summer concert tee by DixieDIY
Thoughts: amazing. Simply amazing. There isn't one thing I don't love about this shirt. it's a staple for me now. 

Day 17: White and comfy
Worn to: lounging in the house (thus the bare legs)
Pattern: Lola by Victory Patterns
Thoughts: such a great pattern, and with my added collar it is extra warm and cozy. It shrunk slightly in the wash so the length is now a tad on the short side, but if I wear yoga pants underneath its fine, ui just wouldn't feel comfortable wearing only tights any longer. 

Day 18: repeat offender from day 16
Worn to: work
Pattern: summer concert tee by DixieDIY
Thoughts: clearly I love this look as it's the second time I've worn it this week. Not one thing changed. Not even my skirt. So comfortable. I'll be making many more very soon. 

and that marks my third week of Me-Made-May. I've done well trying to grab all of my me-Mades, but I can't help but want to wear my favourites again and again. 
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16 May 2014

Casual Comfort in the my Concert Tee


And then there was a need for a casual shirt. The summer concert tee fit the bill to a tee (har har). This sweater knit and the pattern merged to make a beautiful beautiful garment. Gosh I love this shirt.

I realized after 15 days of me-made-May that I really have not sewn any separates. Only one Mable skirt. How is that possible considering I wear knit skirts every second day? I needed more tops. And I recently purchased a beautiful top from Anthropologie and I wanted to make a duplicate. The Concert Tee pattern is very similar to my sweater so I thought I'd make it up and then determine if it was worth the effort to pattern hack it into an exact replica of my RTW sweater. (Answer: It is, and I will be pattern hacking).

This pattern is a very simple one with only 4 pieces: front, back, sleeve, and collar. The biggest challenge for me was trying to decide where I wanted my pattern to go.This pattern is an excellent blend of baggy and loose, it fits me well across the neck, arms, and bust, and flows free below. The hi-low hem of the shirt is also great for extra pizzazz!


It look me less than 2 hours to make, with 1/2 hour of it dedicated to taping the PDF together. I love the instant gratification of PDF's but do I ever HATE taping them together. Ugh.

The only alteration I made was to raise the neckline as as not to disrupt the pattern. I also used clear elastic on every seam to stabilize the knit and hopefully add more life to my shirt as I wash and wear this shirt repeatedly!


 I decided that the pattern should be centered down both the front and back, bugger the side seams. But pattern placement is OH so VERY VERY important. It isn't TOO noticeable, at least, I hope it isn't, but does anybody else see my Star nipples and my V shaped butt crack in the back? Oops. Now that I pointed it out, that's all you can see isn't it? Shucks....


Details

Pattern: Summer Concert Tee by Dixie DIY
Size: Large
Fabric: Sweater Knit (Purcahsed in Los Angeles)
Alteration: Raised the neckline by 1.5"
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11 May 2014

Me-Made-May'14 Week 2

Turns out that wearing me Mades everyday isn't as difficult as I thought it would be. I already do that because I'm so proud of my makes. Even the less than perfect ones. so let's take a look!

Day 5: Wool circle skirt 
Worn to: work in an office
Pattern: circle skirt
Thoughts: this skirt is fun but the wool coating that I used is so thick that it has some serious body to it. I also noticed that due to my posture the skirt hem hangs much lower in the front than in the back. I'll have to cut the front about 1" shorter to make it feel more proportional. I felt like I needed to pull the back of the skirt down all day as I felt the difference in hem lengths. 

Day 6: Mabel skirt
Worn to:
work
Pattern: Colette Mabel skirt
Thoughts: incredibly comfortable. This skirt is great. I do need to readjust the waistband as it's larger than is comfortable for me. But I like my waistbands to really hold everything in. I used black Ponte on the back and side panels and this cool zigzag Ponte I scored while in Los Angeles at the end if March. Great for work and it transitions well into the evening. 

Day 7: spring flora!
Worn to: work
Pattern: Flora Dress By Hand London
Thoughts: after altering the pattern pieces to all my adjustments I think this is the first dress that is almost perfect to my measurements. It also marks one if my first successes using a non-stretch fabric.  Love this dress. And everybody else compliments it too. 

Day 8: fail
Why? I was sick all day and I have yet to made myself any pj sets. 

Day 9: The perfect knit dress
Worn to:
work
Pattern: McCall's 5974
Thoughts: this dress is so comfortable. Yum. But after a day of wear I noticed that I'll need to go back and stabilize the neck and cross front pieces with clear elastic to make it a little more safe and help maintain it's shape all day. Otherwise this dress is still great for hiding my tummy yet being so stretchy and soft. 

Day 10: splotchy goodness
Worn to:
shopping and lunch
Pattern: vogue 1395
Thoughts: easy dress to wear. Fun colours. Cute back bodice ties that wrap around front. I'll have to super iron my neck line as the rolled hem I did is slightly wavey. great length. Finished and worn the same day! Unblogged.

Day 11: deep v drape drape
Worn to: fancy brunch (with a lace shirt underneath)
Pattern: drape drape no.5
Thoughts: although this dress certainly is revealing and unless I was going to the beach, I doubt I'd wear it just as is, but with a lace top underneath this dress is super comfortable. the back is super low though and the materials recovery isn't great so my unstabalized shoulder seams  stretch out as the day continues. 

Another week down and another week happy. I think I'll try to make another cardigan this week as I depend on the two black ones I purchased so much it would be wonderful to replace those with me Mades!

Hopefully I can get outside this week to photograph all my new makes! There's my belladone, Mabel, v1395.... Woots. 

Happy me-made-may'14 Mother's Day!! I'm the proud mommy to a wonderful pupster!





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08 May 2014

The tale of two Flora's


Day after day my Feedly was swamped with various versions of the new By Hand London girls Flora dress. The fabric patterns, the fit, the happiness it brought to everybody's face lured me. I couldn't resist and purchased my own copy (After much waffling only because those patterns are NOT cheap, especially to ship to Canada - yikes).

I received and within an hour had my size 14 traced out and ready for making. I grabbed a purple gabardine I had in my stash and got cracking. cut cut sew sew. Instructions were simple to follow. Lining went together perfectly. Inserted my first invisible zipper with my new invisible zipper foot for my machine (what a joy! I'm no longer scared of zippers!) from start the finish it took me under 5 hours. With the majority of time spent sewing the 12 total darts (too Many darts!!!).

I tried it on all excited. Wait, I'll back up. I measured the pattern and everything seemed fine in flat measurements and I don't toil so just got on with it. now, back to me trying it on all excited - zipped it up, ran to my full length mirror, slipping on hard wood underfoot, and stare at my new creation. But wait, why doesn't it look as nice sad everybody else's? This bodice is gaping. So is the back bodice around the neck. So are the under arms. What the!


So, turns out, this pattern isn't perfect for me. And my shoulders are too narrow for the standard pattern drafting. So the dress fits bad across the top. To solve this I ironed interfacing across the front neckline to stiffen the material and provide more support, but because of how wide the bodice is across my cheat, putting my arms down pushes the bodice inwards causing it to gape. sad. I should simply cut the bodice narrower, but that's so much work, and I still think this is wearable.....so I made a second flora!

let me break down my alterations I made to the pattern for my second flora!
- took a 1/2 inch wedge out of the bodice front and back in the middle of the neckline to reduce gaping issue
- cut out the arm hole and moved the entire piece 1 inch towards the centre (this narrows the front bodice while maintaining the bust and waist proportions)
- removed a 1/4 inch wedge from under the armpit to reduce gaping under the arms
- moved the front bust darts towards the centre front by 1/4 inch
- widened the front bust dart base by 1/8 inch tapering it the fit the original dart about half way up. (To reduce the fabric pooling just under my bust and at my waist) (alternatively I could have adjusted the bodice side shaping , but dart adjustments are easier for me)
- reduced the shoulder piece length by 1 inch

Phew. That sounds like a lot of alterations, and in fact my pattern pieces are looking really mangled (especially with the blue painters tape!) but hey - this flora turned out near perfect! And just LOOK at this print!! It SCREAMS spring! It's the first pattern that I made alterations to, on my second round, to produce a better fit. And you know what? It was totally worth my time!


and next time I'll stay stitch the bodice waist as it stretched and is a little loose. I might take in the sides another 1/4" each and sew the waist seam another 1/4" just across the stomach to reduce the slight drooping that's occurring. Little things.


Beautiful invisible zipper (Especially considering it is my FIRST invisible zipper with my zipper foot!). Front knife pleats and back pleats. So beautiful

This flora is my demand to the Canadian weather gods to give me spring!!


Pattern: By Hand London Flora dress - Variation 2: Tank
Size: 14
Fabric: purple gabardine & floral polyester
Alterations:

  • front dart placement and width
  • narrow shoulder adjustment
  • hollow upper chest adjustment
  • rounded upper back adjustment
  • gaping under arm adjustment
  • shortened shoulder strap
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