21 October 2013

Saltspring in Spades

My first indie pattern is the Sewaholic Saltspring dress. And it is a definite success. I adore everything about the pattern and the outcome of it!

I cut the size 16 originally and the bodice was too large (I forgot to account for ease) so I downsized to the size 14 and removed a 1/2 inch from the middle of the front and back bodice (along the fold here line). The shoulder straps sat too wide across my chest so I needed narrow the bodice. Apparently I have a narrow chest and back because all patterns are too wide for me and the shoulders often fall down. I add the removed centre width to the side width and this works well for my body shape - I'm a perfect circle it seems.

I found this polyester cream & black fabric that has great weight but still nice drape. It is a little stiff so the back of the bodice around the zipper sticks out a little rigidly. But I'm not one to fuss too much.

The pattern itself is well drafted and the instructions are incredibly easy to follow with spectacular technical drawings to follow. I preferred the written instructions to the visual one as I understand better through reading than comprehending visuals, but together they made this dress an easy sew for a newbie!

This was my first lined dress I sewed so all my seams are hidden nicely - so mess!

I struggled to thread the elastic through the waist as I had pressed the side seams in the wrong direction before sewing the encasement so as I was threading it through it became entangled and I did some forceful shoving to get it through. But I prevailed and that elastic waist is now complete.

The bodice is an ingenious design. By shortening the lining and having a longer bodice, when you sew them together at the bottom, it automatically provides a beautiful blousing effect; sans belt; sans hassle! LOVE it. Genius I tell you Genius!

And finally I used wider straps and removed the tie option of them. This was more difficult than I had anticipated. Making them 1 inch wide was easy enough, but determining the proper length for them was not. I basted them 5 times before finding the perfect length for them to fit me perfectly so the bodice front and back sat at the levels I wanted for them. Phew, I need more practice for straps.

Pattern: Sewaholic's Saltspring
Size: 14
Fabric:  100% Polyester crepe in creme&black striped oblong dots? (best description I can give)
Price: $2/metre

  • As I mentioned above, made the bodice narrower by cutting a 1/2 inch off the bodice front and back piece along the Cut On Fold line and added that 1/2 inch to the side seams. 
  • Cut the short skirt length and hemmed at 1 inch
  • Used 1 inch wide straps and removed the tie aspect of them. Making them was easy, finding the perfect length....not so much. 5th times the charm right?
  • Used lace hem tape for some extra pretty!

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